The Florida Plant Guide
A Field Guide for
Florida Gardeners
Vegetables · Herbs · Fruit Trees · Flowers · Native Plants · Soil · Water · Pests · Weather
How to Use This Guide
This is a working reference — not a coffee-table book. Bring it to the garden. Dog-ear the pages. Write in the margins.
The first section covers the stuff that applies to all of Florida: climate, soil, water, pests, fertilizing. Read that first, then go straight to your region's month-by-month calendar.
Variety names follow each plant name directly. They're not random picks — every one was chosen for Florida's conditions: heat tolerance, disease resistance, humidity, and how we actually grow here. In Florida, variety choice matters more than technique.
Florida's Climate
Before variety selection, before soil prep, before anything else — understand what Florida's climate actually asks of you. It's the single biggest reason that gardening advice written for the rest of the country doesn't work here.
The Three Regions
| Region | Zones | Character |
|---|---|---|
| North Florida | 8a–9a | Four seasons, frost likely Nov–Mar, chill hours available |
| Central Florida | 9a–9b | Mild winters, light frost possible Dec–Feb, long fall season |
| South Florida | 10a–11 | Tropical, frost rare, year-round growing, distinct rainy/dry seasons |
Summer: June–September
The hardest stretch. Temps in the low-to-mid 90s, humidity that makes it feel worse, and afternoon thunderstorms rolling in almost daily. The experienced Florida gardener plans around summer, not through it. Summer is for heat-tolerant crops, mulching, soil building, and patience.
Hurricane Season: June 1 – November 30
Harvest anything ripe as soon as a storm enters the forecast. Don't fertilize in the two weeks before a predicted storm. Stake tall plants before the season. Move containers indoors or lay them on their sides. After the storm, wait two to three weeks before replanting into waterlogged soil.
Winter Freezes: The New Reality
The winters of 2022, 2023, and 2024 brought freezes well outside historical norms. Keep frost cloth within reach from November through March, regardless of your region.
Minimum Safe Temperatures
| Plant | Minimum Safe Temp |
|---|---|
| Citrus (mature) | 26°F briefly |
| Satsuma / Kumquat | 20°F |
| Avocado (Lula, Brogdon) | 28°F |
| Mango (most varieties) | 32°F |
| Banana (above-ground) | 26°F — top dies, roots usually survive |
| Papaya | 32°F — very sensitive |
| Basil | 50°F — damage starts here |
| Tomatoes | 32°F |
| Collards / Kale | 20°F — frost actually improves flavor |
Soil
Florida soil is mostly fine sand. It drains fast, warms quickly, and is easy to work. What it lacks is organic matter, nutrient-holding capacity, and structure. Plants in unamended Florida sand will look perpetually hungry no matter how much fertilizer you add — the nutrients wash straight through.
Building Soil Over Time
The goal over multiple seasons is to push organic matter from Florida's typical 1% or less up to 4–5%. Tools: compost before each season, wood chip mulch on top of beds, and occasional cover crops between seasons.
Cover crops worth using in Florida: Sunn hemp (summer, fixes nitrogen), cowpeas (summer, edible and soil-building), crimson clover (winter, nitrogen-fixing, cold tolerant in North FL). Cut and drop at flowering — don't let them set seed.
Water
Florida gets 50 to 60 inches of rain per year — but sandy soil drains it within hours, and the dry season (November through April) can go weeks without meaningful rainfall. You cannot assume rain is watering your garden.
How to Water
Water in the morning, always. Evening watering leaves foliage wet overnight — open invitation to fungal disease. Water deeply and less frequently. The best test: stick a finger an inch or two into the soil before you turn on the hose. Still moist? Skip it.
Four inches of wood chips or pine straw cuts your watering frequency in half, keeps roots from cooking in August, and builds your soil as it breaks down.
Pests & Disease
Florida's warmth means pests and pathogens never get a hard winter reset. Walk your garden weekly, turn leaves over, look for frass and stippling and slime trails — combined with the gentlest effective treatment.
Common Pests
Whiteflies
Florida's most universal garden pest. Yellow sticky traps help with monitoring. Neem oil (applied early morning) suppresses them. Reflective silver mulch physically confuses them.
Aphids
Cluster on tender new growth. Knock off with a hard water spray, then follow with neem oil. Attract or release ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps — your best long-term allies.
Leaf-Footed Bugs & Stink Bugs
Hand-pick into soapy water in early morning when sluggish. Row covers on young plants prevent infestation.
Tomato Hornworm
A massive green caterpillar that can strip a plant overnight. Hand-pick; apply Bt at first sign. Don't kill a hornworm covered in white cocoons — those are parasitic wasp eggs doing the work for you.
Root-Knot Nematodes
Nearly universal in Florida sandy soil. Stunted plants, knobby swollen roots. Rotate crops every season. Dense French marigolds as a cover crop measurably suppress nematode populations.
Spider Mites
Fine webbing and stippled bronze leaves. Increase humidity, apply neem oil. Avoid miticides early — they kill the predatory mites that would control the problem naturally.
Fungal & Disease Problems
Powdery Mildew
White powder on leaves. Improve airflow. Avoid overhead watering. Apply potassium bicarbonate or neem oil at first sign.
Early & Late Blight
Brown spots and yellowing, working up from lower leaves. Remove affected leaves immediately. Apply copper fungicide. Choose resistant varieties.
Citrus Greening (HLB)
Mottled yellow leaves and lopsided bitter fruit. Incurable, spreads by Asian citrus psyllid. Control the psyllid aggressively.
Anthracnose
Black spots on mango and avocado during rainy season. Apply copper fungicide preventatively before the rains arrive in May. By the time you see symptoms, it's too late.
Fertilizing
Florida's sandy soils drain nutrients fast. Light, frequent applications work better than one heavy feeding. Split your annual fertilizer budget into three or four applications through the growing season.
| Plant Type | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Vegetables | Balanced 10-10-10 or 6-6-6 every 4–6 weeks. Side-dress with blood meal mid-season for nitrogen boost on heavy feeders. |
| Tomatoes & Peppers | Low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus starter at transplant (5-10-5). Switch to balanced or high-potassium once fruiting. Calcium foliar spray prevents blossom-end rot. |
| Citrus | Citrus blend with full micronutrients (8-4-8 typical). Apply February, June, October. Never fertilize after September in North FL. |
| Mango & Avocado | 6-6-6 plus micronutrients. February, June, October. Back off nitrogen once trees mature — too much suppresses flowering. |
| Blueberries | Acid-specific fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or azalea blend). Light in early spring, skip summer, apply again in early fall. Sensitive to overfeeding. |
| Native Plants | None after the first season. Over-fertilizing produces lush, pest-prone growth. |
| South FL Alkaline Soil | Supplement with chelated iron and micronutrient blend regardless of NPK levels. Alkalinity locks out trace elements. |
Companion Planting
Companion planting is not folk magic. There is real mechanism behind it — plants that share root space exchange compounds through the soil, flowering plants draw in predatory insects that eat your pests, and dense plantings deny room to weeds. In Florida's climate, where chemical pressure on insects and disease is constant, companions are one of the most practical tools you have.
The key is thinking in systems, not pairs. Don't just plant a basil next to a tomato and call it done. Design each bed so it has something that feeds the soil, something that feeds beneficial insects, and something that confuses or repels pests. Florida's long season gives you time to layer that in.
The Core Companion Pairs — Florida Specific
| Plant | Best Companions | Why It Works | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes | Basil, marigolds (French), borage, carrots, parsley, asparagus | Basil may repel thrips and aphids; borage deters tomato hornworm and attracts pollinators; marigolds suppress nematodes in the root zone | Fennel, brassicas, corn, potatoes |
| Peppers | Basil, carrots, okra, tomatoes, marigolds, cilantro | Basil confuses aphids and whiteflies; okra provides light afternoon shade in spring that extends pepper productivity; marigolds deter nematodes | Fennel, brassicas |
| Okra | Peppers, eggplant, southern peas, basil, sweet potatoes | Southern peas fix nitrogen okra needs; sweet potato vines act as living mulch suppressing weeds; eggplant thrives in the microclimate okra creates | Nothing major — okra is generally a good neighbor |
| Sweet Potatoes | Okra, southern peas, dill, thyme, summer savory | Vines suppress weeds for tall crops; peas fix nitrogen; herbs deter sweet potato weevil | Squash (competing vines), sunflowers |
| Cucumbers | Sunflowers, nasturtiums, beans, dill (young only), radishes, marigolds | Sunflowers provide trellis and draw aphids away; nasturtiums trap aphids before they reach cucumbers; radishes deter cucumber beetles | Aromatic herbs (sage, rosemary), potatoes, mature dill |
| Squash & Calabaza | Corn, beans, nasturtiums, borage, marigolds, dill | Classic Three Sisters; nasturtiums trap squash bugs; borage deters both squash bugs and tomato hornworm; dill draws parasitic wasps that attack squash vine borers | Potatoes, fennel |
| Beans & Southern Peas | Corn, squash, cucumbers, carrots, strawberries, rosemary | Fix atmospheric nitrogen that feeds heavy feeders; corn and squash complete the Three Sisters system; carrots loosen soil for bean roots to spread | Onions, garlic, fennel, leeks — alliums stunt bean growth |
| Corn | Beans, squash, cucumbers, sunflowers, borage, melons | Beans fix nitrogen; squash shades roots and suppresses weeds; the Three Sisters system feeds the soil while producing three separate harvests from one space | Tomatoes (share pests), celery |
| Brassicas (Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale) | Dill, thyme, sage, rosemary, hyssop, chamomile, celery, nasturtiums, onions | Aromatic herbs mask the volatile compounds that cabbage moths use to locate brassicas; nasturtiums trap aphids; onions and celery deter cabbage loopers | Tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, beans — all stunt brassica growth |
| Strawberries | Borage, thyme, sage, spinach, lettuce, garlic, beans | Borage is the classic strawberry companion — it deters thrips and draws pollinators; thyme and sage deter slugs; garlic suppresses gray mold (botrytis) in wet weather | Brassicas, fennel, melons |
| Eggplant | Tarragon, thyme, marigolds, peppers, green beans, spinach | Tarragon is eggplant's strongest companion — repels flea beetles and aphids; marigolds deter nematodes; green beans fix nitrogen | Fennel |
| Lettuce & Greens | Radishes, carrots, strawberries, chives, cilantro, dill, tall flowers (zinnia, sunflower) | Radishes deter aphids and loosen soil; tall companions provide afternoon shade that extends the lettuce season in Florida's heat; cilantro and dill draw aphid predators | Celery, parsley (in wet conditions — compete for same nutrients) |
| Cassava (Yuca) | Pigeon peas, moringa, sweet potatoes, okra, lemongrass | Pigeon peas fix nitrogen and provide partial shade; moringa's deep roots access different soil layers avoiding competition; this combination is a full food forest understory | Most shallow-rooted annuals (root competition) |
| Tropical Fruit Trees (Mango, Avocado) | Comfrey, sweet potatoes, pigeon peas, lemongrass, moringa, Barbados cherry | Comfrey mines deep nutrients and chops down as mulch; pigeon peas fix nitrogen and break wind; lemongrass deters pests and retains soil moisture; sweet potatoes cover ground and suppress weeds | Allelopathic plants — eucalyptus, black walnut; competing fruit trees with same root depth |
| Citrus | Comfrey, borage, phacelia, fennel (perimeter only), lemongrass, marigolds | Comfrey draws potassium to the surface; borage and phacelia bring pollinators at bloom time; fennel planted at the perimeter draws parasitic wasps that attack citrus psyllid | Other deep-rooted trees too close; brassicas that harbour viruses |
The Three Sisters — Florida Adaptation
Corn, beans, and squash. Indigenous farmers across the Americas grew these three together for thousands of years because they feed each other. Corn provides the trellis for beans. Beans fix nitrogen that corn and squash drain from the soil. Squash sprawls along the ground, shading out weeds and keeping soil moisture in.
In Florida, the system works best as a fall planting (September–October) or an early spring planting (March–April). Summer heat shuts down beans and squash too fast to complete the cycle.
How to plant it: Space corn in blocks (not rows) 12 inches apart. Two weeks after corn is knee-high, sow beans at the base of every other corn stalk. Two weeks after that, plant one squash hill between every four corn stalks. The staggered timing means each plant is at the right stage to give and receive.
Pest-Deterrent Companions — What to Plant and Where
French Marigolds
The most important companion you can grow in Florida. Root secretions of French marigold varieties (Tagetes patula, NOT African Tagetes erecta) actively suppress root-knot nematodes. Plant densely as a cover crop for a full season, then till in before planting vegetables. Or interplant throughout beds all season. Use Disco, Safari, Bonanza, or Petite Gold varieties for strongest effect.
Basil
Plant between tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Basil's volatile oils physically confuse insects that navigate by smell. Nufar is the best Florida basil — it resists fusarium wilt that kills most basil here by midsummer. African Blue basil is a perennial in South FL and blooms nonstop, bringing in predatory wasps all season.
Borage
One of the most effective all-around companions in any warm-climate garden. Deters tomato hornworm and squash bugs, attracts predatory wasps, and draws pollinators in enormous numbers. Self-seeds readily — once you plant it, you'll have it. Blue flowers are edible. Grows fast in Florida conditions.
Nasturtiums
The trap crop approach: plant nasturtiums at the edge of cucumbers and squash. Aphids and cucumber beetles swarm nasturtiums first. You spot them there, you destroy those plants before the pest population spreads inward. Thrives in Florida's winter and spring; fades in summer heat.
Thyme, Sage & Rosemary
Aromatic herbs planted near brassicas mask the chemical signals that cabbage moths use to find their host plants. Thyme and rosemary also attract beneficial wasps. Rosemary grows as a perennial shrub in Florida — plant it once at the edge of your cool-season bed and harvest from it for years.
Tarragon & Catnip
Tarragon is eggplant's best companion — it specifically deters flea beetles that riddle eggplant leaves early in the season. Catnip deters aphids, squash bugs, and flea beetles across the garden. Catnip grows as a perennial in most of Florida — cut it back hard after it flowers and it regrows quickly.
Reflective Mulch (Companion Strategy)
Silver reflective plastic mulch is technically not a plant, but it functions as a companion strategy — the reflected UV light physically disorients whiteflies and aphids, reducing infestation by 30–50% without any spray. Pair it with basil plantings for maximum effect. Remove before summer heat builds to avoid cooking roots.
Dill, Thyme & Summer Savory
Plant these at the edges of sweet potato beds. The volatile oils deter sweet potato weevil, which is the most damaging sweet potato pest in Florida. Dill does double duty by drawing parasitic wasps that prey on many caterpillar pests nearby. Harvest dill before it goes to seed or it self-seeds aggressively.
Beneficial Insect Plants — Year-Round in Florida
The most important companion plants are the ones that feed beneficial insects — predatory wasps, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic flies that eat your pests before you ever see a problem. These predators need pollen and nectar from small-flowered plants. Big showy flowers don't feed them; tiny compound flowers do.
| Plant | Season in FL | Beneficial Insects Attracted | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dill | Cool season | Parasitic wasps, lacewings, hoverflies, predatory beetles | Let it flower — that's when it works hardest. Succession sow every 3 weeks fall through spring. |
| Cilantro (bolted) | Cool season | Parasitic wasps, hoverflies, lacewings | Let a portion bolt and flower. Bolted cilantro is not wasted — it becomes your best beneficial insect habitat of the season. |
| Fennel | Cool season | Parasitic wasps, swallowtail butterflies (larval host), ladybugs | Plant at perimeter only — it inhibits most vegetables. Host plant for swallowtail caterpillars. |
| Sweet Alyssum | Cool season | Hoverflies, parasitic wasps, minute pirate bugs | Hoverfly larvae eat aphids voraciously. Plant alyssum near aphid-prone crops. Self-seeds; reappears every cool season once established. |
| Zinnias | Warm season | Parasitic wasps, predatory beetles, soldier bugs, spiders | The #1 summer beneficial insect plant for Florida. Zahara and Profusion varieties survive rain and humidity that kill other zinnias. |
| Pentas | Year-round | Parasitic wasps, butterflies, hummingbirds (which eat insects) | Blooms continuously through summer heat and into light frost. One of the best all-season beneficials plants in Central and South FL. |
| Firebush (Hamelia patens) | Year-round | Parasitic wasps, hummingbirds, predatory beetles | Native. Perennial in Central and South FL. Grows 6–10 ft. Hummingbirds use it to fuel up, then hunt insects in your garden. |
| Borage | Cool/warm transition | Predatory wasps, bees, lacewings | One of the densest pollinator magnets in the garden when in bloom. Self-seeds reliably. |
| Moringa | Warm season | Parasitic wasps, bees, beneficial beetles | When moringa flowers, the entire tree hums with activity. Position near the center of the food garden if possible. |
| Pigeon Peas | Year-round | Parasitic wasps, bees, predatory beetles | Perennial in Zone 9b+. Fixes nitrogen, feeds beneficials, provides windbreak, and produces food. The single best multi-function companion plant for Florida. |
| Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) | Warm season | Bees, predatory wasps, hoverflies | Flowers attract a dense range of beneficials. Grows 6 ft tall — use as a border or windbreak while feeding your insect allies all season. |
| Marigolds (French) | Year-round | Hoverflies, parasitic wasps, spiders, predatory beetles | Flowers feed beneficials above ground while roots suppress nematodes below. Disco, Safari, and Bonanza are the most effective varieties. Plant everywhere, always. |
What NOT to Plant Together in Florida
| Plant | Keep Away From | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Fennel | Everything except dill and other fennel | Fennel releases allelopathic compounds that stunt almost every vegetable. It belongs at the garden perimeter as a beneficial insect plant, never in the bed. |
| Beans & Southern Peas | Onions, garlic, leeks, chives, shallots | Alliums inhibit the nitrogen-fixing bacteria that make legumes valuable. Stunts bean yield and undermines the soil benefit entirely. |
| Tomatoes | Corn, fennel, brassicas, potatoes | Corn and tomatoes share several key pests (earworm, fruitworm). Brassicas and tomatoes compete for the same nutrients in Florida's depleted sand. Potatoes and tomatoes share blight. |
| Brassicas (Kale, Broccoli, etc.) | Tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, beans, mustard relatives | Heavy feeders that compete aggressively. Strawberry yield drops noticeably near brassicas. Keep them in their own dedicated cool-season bed. |
| Onions & Garlic | Beans, peas, asparagus, sage | Allium root secretions suppress legume nodule bacteria. Asparagus and sage also grow poorly near onion family plants. |
| Cucumbers | Aromatic herbs (sage, rosemary), potatoes, mature dill | Strong aromatic oils from sage and rosemary interfere with cucumber development. Young dill helps; mature dill cross-pollinates with cucumbers and affects flavor. Potatoes share pests. |
| Squash | Potatoes, fennel | Potatoes and squash compete for phosphorus intensely. Fennel stunts squash as it does nearly every vegetable. |
| Tropical Fruit Trees | Other trees of similar root depth planted too close, allelopathic plants (eucalyptus) | Mango and avocado need their own root territory. Eucalyptus releases toxins into surrounding soil. Black walnut is the most allelopathic tree — nothing grows well within its root zone. |
Companion Planting by Season
Florida's two main growing seasons each call for different companion strategies. Plan companions when you plan the bed — not after you've already planted everything.
Plant with your vegetables: French marigolds throughout all beds (nematode suppression even in cool season), cilantro and dill allowed to bolt among brassicas, sweet alyssum along bed edges, thyme and rosemary near the brassica block, borage near strawberries.
Priority pest targets: Cabbage loopers, aphids, whiteflies, root-knot nematodes, flea beetles on eggplant.Plant with your vegetables: Basil throughout (whitefly and aphid confusion), zinnias at bed edges (beneficial wasps), pentas and firebush as perimeter plants, pigeon peas as windbreak and nitrogen fixer, nasturtiums as trap crops for cucumbers if temperatures stay under 90°F.
Priority pest targets: Whiteflies, spider mites, stink bugs, leaf-footed bugs, squash vine borers, sweet potato weevil.Month-by-Month Planting Calendar
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Resources
The University of Florida's UF/IFAS Extension is the single most valuable resource for Florida gardeners. Every county has a free extension office with Master Gardener volunteers who know your exact soil type, pest pressure, and growing conditions.
📚 Extension & Research
- UF/IFAS Publication Library — edis.ifas.ufl.edu
- County Extension Offices — sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu
- Florida Native Plant Society — fnps.org
🌱 Seed Sources
- Johnny's Selected Seeds
- Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
- Sow True Seed
- Florida Seed and Garden
🌴 Tropical Fruit
- Truly Tropical — South FL fruit trees
- Going Bananas Nursery — rare tropical fruit
- Tropical Fruit Growers of South Florida
🍓 Specialty Plants
- Lara Farms — blueberry and strawberry plugs
- Florida Blueberry Growers Association
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